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All Roads Lead to Rome

By: Eric Gennaro

All Roads Lead to Rome.  That is exactly how my Spring trip to Italy went.  It was an awe inspiring three weeks full of coffee, tiramisu, prosciutto and porchetta set in the back drop of rolling and hilly countryside and Medieval stoney towns starting and ending in the Eternal City.  This journey was put into perspective after meeting with Milena Pepe, from Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, in Verona during VinItaly, Italy’s most famed annual wine festival. 

Cavalier Pepe is a historic estate producing complex and mineral driven wines from ancient varieties. The vineyards surround the town of Irpinia , a region within Campania in Southern Italy and is close in proximity  to the city of Naples.  It is a loud and hectic place with a tough exterior that becomes warm and welcoming once  embraced.   The vineyards range from 300-800m above sea level and are influenced by the volcanic soil from Mount Vesuvius and the coastal Mediterranean breeze from the west.  As we sat with Milena, snacking on pecorino cheese and cracker-like taralli and weaving our way through a magical flight of wines, she talked about the the old Roman road that runs through the property.  This old stone road, known as the Appian Way, runs from Rome to Brindisi in Apulia and was the Empire’s major military trail.  It allowed troops and supplies to be transported to and from the country’s eastern port away from the difficult Pontine marshes to the south and the tricky Apennine mountains to the north.  As you can tell I am a bit of a history buff.


I’ll admit it, Campania is an often overlooked region in Italy.  It remains in the shadow of Tuscan nobility and the giants of Turin.  However, once I set my feet back on its road I marvelled at how good wines from this area are.  We started with the Falanghina ‘Lila’.  Not a household name but this fresh white was super enjoyable.  It has a pale yellow colour and the aromatics are leaping out of the glass.  Notes of peach and pear puree, pineapple and white flowers come to mind.  We moved on to the Greco di Tufo.  Here we almost do a complete 360 as the nose is more reserved but the palate has so much more structure and presence. The texture and body are warmer, richer and finish with a mighty saline quality; a direct expression of the volcano’s leftovers.  We move onto the reds where the Aglianco get its chance to shine.  This varietal is the jewel of Cavalier Pepe’s lineup.  It’s a dark and powerful grape which always seems to give us dark fruit and roasted meat characteristics all under a blanket of crushed rock. A solid hard edged path to a soft and comforting home.  We cruise through the Sanserino, an Agliancio blended with Sangiovese.  It is a medium weight earthy and cherry soaked red of superb value.  The Terre del Varo has a more complex and savoury edge and was screaming for any dish with braised game bird.  Then came the monster, Taurasi.  A boulder of a wine, crushing our tastebuds with earth, leather, spice and chocolate tannin.  And just as we are recovering, Milena pulls out Appio, an Aglianco from Taurasi aged in clay Amphorae for 2 years, limited to a 900 bottle production. Because this wine sees no wood it cannot be labelled as a Taurasi. Nonetheless,  I am left speechless by the best wine of my enduring voyage.
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A great representation of the expressive nature of Falanghina. The fruit is tart and ripe citrus pulp and pith with ripe peach. The florality complements the fruit perfectly showing citrus blossom and honeysuckle. There is a distinct bitter almond on the finish with a wet stone minerality. The extended lees aging lends a savoury, parmesan cheese rind note to the wine.
Intense yellow and gold in the glass with notes of ripe peach, apple and citrus. Rich and juicy with perfectly balanced acidity, minerality and a long persistent finish. This wine will reward with up to 7 years of ageing.
A beautiful blend of Aglianico and Sangiovese; the fruit is tart and ripe black and red cherry, with damson plum. There is a savoury smoked meat element to the wine with lots of dried leather and white pepper spice. The wine is dry, full bodied with elevated acid and nicely integrated tannin.
Aromas of ripe black plums and berries, together with nutty-mineral and bay-leaf notes that are present on the palate, too. Medium- to full-bodied with firm tannins and a savory finish. Drinkable now, if a little firm, or hold another year. Score - 91. (jamessuckling.com, Oct. 4, 2021)